The Bold and Beautiful Machu Picchu
Written by Bessie on Monday, December 29, 2008 in Peru
Feelin' excited
"A trip to South America without going to Machu Picchu would feel incomplete." I've heard this time and again, and I finally understand. It's the sort of place that not only is the construction impressive, but the landscape is so dramatic you sort of can't help to stand with your mouth and eyes wide-open taking it all in. The Incans were sure flexing their muscles when they built this one.Feelin' excited
"Discovering" the City
Machu Picchu became widely known in 1911 when a researcher from Yale was led there by a local boy. Hiram Bingham has become famous for "finding it", although locals and some pillagers knew about it before he came with the money. Really the best part of it is that the Spanish didn't find it and destroy it in the 1500s, as they looted and destroyed many other sites. (Although Peru recently sued Yale University to return about 250 loaned artifacts that have not yet been returned from the 1912 excavation.)
The broken record statement about Peru applies here that no one really knows why the Incans built this city because they didn't write anything down. Some theories are that it was a city built at the height of their empire, that it was a resort sort of escape for the Incan nobility, or even that it was a jail. Whatever the reason, there's no doubt that the Incans built it here amongst the mountains as a tribute to a god(s) and that it's an amazing architectural feat.
Why Machu Picchu is Amazing:
1. They built on a flattened mountain. The Incans picked this place for its beautiful surroundings and went so far as to flatten a mountain to build a great city and build on its sheer cliffs. It's an awful lot of effort when there are valleys nearby. The Machu Picchu mountain is 2,350 meters (7,710 feet).
2. They knew how to use their rocks. A trademark of Incan construction is the way they puzzle-pieced together rocks and didn't use mortar. It's beautiful, smooth construction, and must have been a ridiculous amount of work. The also built temples and buildings on top of rocks jutting out of the mountain, and somehow made it look good.
3. The scenery is breathtaking. Machu Picchu is set fantastically in a river valley where steep mountains drop dramatically to the river below. A rushing chocolate milk colored river cuts through lush green and snow-capped peaks.
Some Visual Highlights:
Sun-Gate: A beautiful look-out over the site and surrounding valley (Inka Trail hikers follow the path of the Incans to this spot to get their first look over the ruins).
Watchman's Hut: On a hill over the ruins, there's a beautiful "classic postcard" view over the area.
Llamas!! Peru has given me an obsession with llamas. There's something about these animals that just make me smile. In addition to tasting like beef (with less fat), they're apparently good lawn mowers.
Terracing: Incans likely planted crops on these hillside terraces.
Some living stuff: Although the Incans are long gone, if you look close, you can see life still exists on Machu Picchu.
The Down-side: Tourism is Demanding
25 years ago, Machu Picchu was named as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it's now a new Wonder of the World, so tourism is not new to the area. The trouble is that the tourism is starting to get the best of things. Midday the ruins get Disneyland-esque traffic as neon-suited guides lead groups of 30+ people. A hike to the peak of the Huayna Picchu is no longer first come first serve, but tour companies are paying for priveleges to pull their groups to the front of the lines.
By far the worst part though is the rising prices aren't benefiting the local communities that lead to the site. The admission ticket has nearly doubled from $23 in 2006 to $40 today. There are also monopolies controling the transportation in and out, so you have no choice but to pay $60+ for a round-trip train ticket & $7 for the bus to the entrance. Total bare minimum for the visit is $114, for a few hours on the site. (The alternative is to take the Inka Trail 2-8 day hike, and I won't even get started on the prices with that.)
The Mandatory:
It wouldn't be a proper visit to a famous site if not for silly pictures in front of it.
Bessie & Kate, who visited us from D.C.; I know you expect nothing less than us jumping in front of Machu Picchu
Comments on "The Bold and Beautiful Machu Picchu"
Ya, the hiking is a cheaper option. The "Inca Trail" hike has to be booked like 3 months in advance, though, which doesn't fit into our non-planning attitude. There are alternate hikes, though, which seem worthwhile.
You got way closer to the llamas then I did! I was always too afraid of them spitting at me! Isn't the place just magical! So sorry to hear about how touristy it has become. What did you think of the town of Aguas Calientes? Crazy huh? We took the bus up, but walked down the side of the mountain back to the bus area. Much better.
Aguas Calientes is what it is...expensive and touristy, but close to Machu Picchu. I actually thought the restaurants there had decent food...at least we were paying for quality!
W O W ! ! ! WELL DONE.... LOOKS LIKE YOU HAD NICE WEATHER AND THE BEST OF VIEWS AND EXERCISE.... SEE YOU IN A COUPLE MONTHS.... WE LOVE YOU....
I trekked this a few years ago (before the booking system and it looks like the fees have gone up a lot) and I still think it one of my best travel experiences despite the downside of overcrowding, painful guides and the like. Somehow to me, the majesty of Machu Picchu simply overwhelms any negatives and there were still spots that you "escape" and enjoy the place in relative peace. And the Incan stonework and the natural location are very special.
Alright, I really wanted you guys to visit Machu. I've been told about its magic and its amazing surroundings. What I did not know about was the monopoly you explained. That's really gota suck :( I feel sorry for those poeple living around the site but hey, things are the same in most places. I read on my local newspaper that the hike tour was a cheaper option however, and that apparently oxygen is hard to come by because of the altitude etc. Wow, thanks for letting us know about that. Thanks again for the post and happy new year even though it's already the 4th of Jan. Cheers
by Mezclado at January 03, 2009 11:09 PM