Quetzaltrekker 2-Day Death Hike

Written by Bessie about Nicaragua. Feelin' excited
Bessie_excited
Okay, so Death might be a slight exaggeration, but this trek was intense and the scenes, dramatic.  We went up or around 6 volcanoes/ mountains.  We were hiking inside the craker of an active volcano as a mass of rocks fell.  And our guide had to scare off wild animals with a machetti.  We drank over 2 gallons of water in the 36 hour period it was so hot.  And I can honestly say that I had no idea that my body could sweat so much (or smell for that matter).  I'll start from the beginning.

Quetzaltrekkers is a super rad non-prof organization in Nicaragua (and Guatemala) that lead hikes to area volcanoes and attractions.  It's all volunteer run, so hike costs pay for essential food and water, and the rest of it goes to local organizations that help street kids (food, education, etc.)  A huge perk is that the guides are experienced, passionate travelers that have settled in for a few months to help.  And it's cheap: 36+ hours of hiking = $45/ person, everything included.

Our two guides were Austrian, one a former 5 year Army vet & a former UN security soldier between Syria & Lebanon (read: hard-core hiker) and the other a nature loving student in Nicaragua for 6 months.

Here's an itinerary overview:

  • Meet at 4 am pack stuff, eat, and ride old school bus into middle of no-where.
  • Hike through sand & rocks into the crater of an active volcano (Cerro Negro) - the rocks just beyond the smoke are the ones that crashed down while we were there, after that we were eager to ska-doodle on
El Hoyo Hike 18El Hoyo Hike 38
Cerro Negro Panoramic, Nicaragua
  • Run & jump down the lava rocks 
El Hoyo Hike 56
  • Then hike up a trail so steep you almost need suction cups to hold on, that passed between the base of two sister volcanoes (Las Pilas, the 2 on the right) & pass an old volcano crater (left)
El Hoyo Hike 107
  • Pass an old volcano's hole (El Hoyo) on a almost all rock trail and by another hole steaming nearby
El Hoyo Hike 76El Hoyo Hike 116
  • Machete a campsite for the night & set-up tents
El Hoyo Hike 89
  • Enjoy the night time scenery (Kyle's proud lighting photo - not an easy shot to get) & get some shut-eye
El Hoyo Hike 111 Panoramic near El Hoyo, Nicaragua
  • Day 2: Wake at sunrise and head down the volcano into another National Park around the volcano and to a crater lake (shown right, in the distance, Asososca Volcano & Lake)
El Hoyo Hike 124El Hoyo Hike 114
  • Bask in refreshing crater lake goodness - shown sore but smiling
El Hoyo Hike 129IMG_7931
  • Drink a celebratory Coca Cola - always in glass bottles down here
El Hoyo Hike 2


To do it all justice, we made an eXtreme video that gives the full machete swinging details of our two days.


If you want to see the itinerary from a Google Map, check it out by clicking here: Quetzaltrekker 2-day hike.

To say the least, the whole thing was eXtreme.  Quite possibly one of the most eXtreme things I've ever done in my life.
El Hoyo Hike 106


Other Hairy Details
So the hairy details left out are that all 7 of us ended up getting sick from something we ate on the hike, and it come out during the night one way or another.  It was a rough night sleeping, and made the next day that much more dehydrating and well, poopy.

The two packs we carried weighed at least 25 pounds each, I say closer to 30, but Kyle disagrees.  All I know is that 1 gallon of water = 8.34 pounds, and we started carrying almost 2 gallons.  Carry those up and over a few mountains = one word.  Tired.
Bessie rehydrating

We also came to the point of smelling that gnats were constantly around us.  They'd buzz in our ears, and in general hang around us all the time.  Think Pigpen from Peanuts, the dirty character with dirt just floating around us.  We got on a crowded old Blue Bird school bus to ride back into town, and I felt so bad for the people around us.  Our stench at least had those good bus breezes to take it away. 

Coolness.

A huge highlight was the people with us.  We met a number of cool travelers.  A guy from Gibraltar (attached to southern Spain) in med school working at a Nicaraguan hospital, 2 french agriculture students spending a few months in Managua, an Austrian who took a 6 months leave from work to continue grad classes and learn spanish, and another Austrian who left home to travel a year with his girlfriend, and it's been 1 year 9 months, from Argentina up so far, and they're continuing their path up to Canada (their blog, with english link).  To say the least they were great conversation.

The End?
Despite the exhaustion and blisters developing, we craved more.  Details of our next hike to come.  Oh, and this hike left me more than desiring to stay in Nicaragua longer and soak in it's goodness.  So far, I just can't get enough.

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