Quetzaltrekker 2-Day Death Hike
Quetzaltrekkers is a super rad non-prof organization in Nicaragua (and Guatemala) that lead hikes to area volcanoes and attractions. It's all volunteer run, so hike costs pay for essential food and water, and the rest of it goes to local organizations that help street kids (food, education, etc.) A huge perk is that the guides are experienced, passionate travelers that have settled in for a few months to help. And it's cheap: 36+ hours of hiking = $45/ person, everything included.
Our two guides were Austrian, one a former 5 year Army vet & a former UN security soldier between Syria & Lebanon (read: hard-core hiker) and the other a nature loving student in Nicaragua for 6 months.
Here's an itinerary overview:
- Meet at 4 am pack stuff, eat, and ride old school bus into middle of no-where.
- Hike through sand & rocks into the crater of an active volcano (Cerro Negro) - the rocks just beyond the smoke are the ones that crashed down while we were there, after that we were eager to ska-doodle on
- Run & jump down the lava rocks
- Then hike up a trail so steep you almost need suction cups to hold on, that passed between the base of two sister volcanoes (Las Pilas, the 2 on the right) & pass an old volcano crater (left)
- Pass an old volcano's hole (El Hoyo) on a almost all rock trail and by another hole steaming nearby
- Machete a campsite for the night & set-up tents
- Enjoy the night time scenery (Kyle's proud lighting photo - not an easy shot to get) & get some shut-eye
- Day 2: Wake at sunrise and head down the volcano into another National Park around the volcano and to a crater lake (shown right, in the distance, Asososca Volcano & Lake)
- Bask in refreshing crater lake goodness - shown sore but smiling
- Drink a celebratory Coca Cola - always in glass bottles down here
To say the least, the whole thing was eXtreme. Quite possibly one of the most eXtreme things I've ever done in my life.
So the hairy details left out are that all 7 of us ended up getting sick from something we ate on the hike, and it come out during the night one way or another. It was a rough night sleeping, and made the next day that much more dehydrating and well, poopy.
The two packs we carried weighed at least 25 pounds each, I say closer to 30, but Kyle disagrees. All I know is that 1 gallon of water = 8.34 pounds, and we started carrying almost 2 gallons. Carry those up and over a few mountains = one word. Tired.
We also came to the point of smelling that gnats were constantly around us. They'd buzz in our ears, and in general hang around us all the time. Think Pigpen from Peanuts, the dirty character with dirt just floating around us. We got on a crowded old Blue Bird school bus to ride back into town, and I felt so bad for the people around us. Our stench at least had those good bus breezes to take it away.
Coolness.
A huge highlight was the people with us. We met a number of cool travelers. A guy from Gibraltar (attached to southern Spain) in med school working at a Nicaraguan hospital, 2 french agriculture students spending a few months in Managua, an Austrian who took a 6 months leave from work to continue grad classes and learn spanish, and another Austrian who left home to travel a year with his girlfriend, and it's been 1 year 9 months, from Argentina up so far, and they're continuing their path up to Canada (their blog, with english link). To say the least they were great conversation.
The End?
Despite the exhaustion and blisters developing, we craved more. Details of our next hike to come. Oh, and this hike left me more than desiring to stay in Nicaragua longer and soak in it's goodness. So far, I just can't get enough.
What others are saying
Wow! Reminds me of the days hiking around Rochester Indiana. LOL In my dreams baby. Seriously, that was nothing short of dangerous. I admire you both.
hilarious, auntie donna. could you imagine volcanoes all around Indy like that? they did come up out of corn fields! :) You would have liked the hikes. Beautiful views!
very funny bess ;D. i guess next time it storms i'm gonna have to train andrew to help me.
i'm so mad at kyle i dont even remember what i just read. and i'll tell u why i'm mad. i have tried FOREVER (and by forever i mean during 2 dif storms) to get a picture of lightning and cant do it! well probably if i just kept clicking but i dont wanna wear out my camera on a picture i'm probably not gonna get. but i'm still mad.
so anyway, like i said, i dont remember what i just read. i do remember thinking it was cool though. and that i now want a glass of water. that's the best i can do. i'm too focused on me NOT getting a lightning picture and kyle did. son of a b.....
haa haaaaa! If it's any consolation, that photo was really hard to get. There were about 6 of us all trying, and only 2 people got it, after a loooooooooong time of trying. Oh, and the key was that the lighting would come in groups, so we'd see one, and in the delay that it takes to push the camera button another would strike. Oh, wait, I mean, the real secret is Kyle's wicked photography skills and sharp trigger finger. wink.
Ok......let's talk bugs! Except for gnats, you did not mention anything about....bugs....and I'm not counting the scorpion. The enviroment looked like bug haven.....but maybe the altitude was so high that no self respecting bug would choose to live there. Or....if bugs did abound....did the special bug repellent work that you got when you were home for a visit? I would have loved the scenery and the volcano but the weedy areas would not have felt like a safe resting place.....I'd always be wondering what was creeping nearby. Guess I'm just not a camper! :)
I'm speechless (almost!). Your writing-style AND story in this Post totally captured my attention. The adrenalin and adventure were Entirely represented! The VIDEO takes the cake! (sorry, you DID get 1st dibbs on the cake theme...LOL) What you share is AMAZING! How your voice is SO expressive for your experiences...
Such tales you two will have to tell your kids and grandkids! Picture ME showing a 40 yr. old video to Russell & Eliza! - Years down the line, it'll be YOUR turn! THIS was your grammy....running down the volcano...and now you hear grandpa's voice and you can see him emptying his shoe... You get the picture. LOL) Okay -- I'll say it: I AM SO DANG IMPRESSED WITH THIS POST AND THE TWO OF YOU! Keep on keeping on! And THANKS for the great time!
we definitely had a great time - no way around that. the lake might have even been that much "sweeter" if we really did have some chocolate cake there. :)
We'll definitely look back proudly someday, when our grandkids will be like, "Websites, that's like so super old.........."
This was "totally awesome" (to quote my 80s days). We totally should have met you in Nicaragua instead of Costa Rica... dang! I never thought I would put Nicaragua on my list of places to visit/vacation, but you've turned me around. Thanks for the awesome posts! keep it up kiddos!
yeah, i shouldn't have teased you - we didn't know Nicaragua would be quite so amazing, or we would have had you come here! Very few English speakers here though in the tourism industry, very unlike Costa Rica.
This place will get a lot of tourism industry in the future. It's starting to grow, and you can get a book about retiring in Nicargua, which we've seen a number of transplanted Baby Boomers around enjoying $.85 beers and delicious $4 meals.
Must agree...the best video to date..surpassing your karaoke! curious if any sacrificial offerings were given to the volcanic gods to stave off the coming 8-year eruption. But I found it more interesting that you crossed paths with another couple going in the opposite direction of yours. wonder what notes you shared with them (such as what to avoid in the u.s.!) and vice-versa. so if they have been on their journey for nearly 2 years...hmm...
Wow! Surpassing the karaoke - that's a major compliment!! I almost felt like a scrificial offering, glad I wasn't.
Yeah, you pieced it together, that the couple we met has spent nearly two years doing the journey we have in front of us - they really stretched it out though. As for them, they have until May, less than 8 months, to make what has taken us 8 months, AND, they are going through the west coast of US and to Vancouver... So they're 2nd half will quicker than what we did it in.
WOW!!! This was your finest video of the entire year! Extreme and beautiful, exhausting and so rewarding. Loved Kyle's lightning photo. I could feel the heat of the day and then the wonderful cooling water of the lake. At least I didn't need to worry about you being ambushed by a jaguar. They are far too intellegent to walk into a live volcano crater and breathe sulphur fumes. :>) :>) The rattle snakes were enough to worry about. Didn't the ranger station mention that the rattlers love to hide on rocky hills?!!! Also...great scorpion for Kyle to tease...Revenge of the Scorpion King may soon be upon you!!! And HEY... NO GUARD RAILS around the craters like they have in Hawaii. LONG WAY DOWN IF YOU SLIP... AND what's up with the lack of air conditioning and seatbelts on the busses. They wouldn't get away with that in Chicago! :>) :>) Great trip and proud of the fitness you have built up this year. Come home for the Chicago Marathon! ... AND STOP SWINGING THOSE HUGE KNIVES... you make me NeRvOuS... &#@(%)#!>>@?%$#(!).....Can't you go back to festivals, baseball games and beer bottle photos for a safety break??!!! :>) :>) ... Peace and Smiles and great adventures to you always............
Swinging huge knives is super fun, you should try it. In Nicaragua, they call those knives "machetes" which I think means "lawn mower" :)
haa haa, yeah, the lack of guard rails in Central America is laughable. Life in general down here is at your own risk, let alone climbing volcanoes. I think the thought of a law-suit would be incomprehendable to most down here.
And yes, I was pretty scared about coming across a rattlesnake in the rocks and grasses, but the machete slinging guide was scarying them off. Also, I stared at the ground 90% of the time, so I definitely would have seen it, if it wasn't in the tree above us!
Ditto what Kyle said, the machetes are SUPER fun! I'm glad we capture all the eXtreme-ness of the adventure in the video. In the hardest moments of hiking neither of us had the strength to pull out the camera, but they would have been great to capture.
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Ok,that last comment was mine the computer stored the wrong name. Oops
by auntie donna at September 20, 2008 07:43 PM