Our 2011 in Myanmar: Full-On

Written by Bessie about Myanmar. Feelin' thoughtful

Full on. That's the best way I can describe 2011. It's borrowed from a dear Sri Lankan-Australian friend that introduced me to life in Yangon.

Bessie & Kyle Visiting a Temple in Yangon

Visiting a temple. Traditional style.

I didn't understand the Aussie phrase 'full-on', until I lived it this past year. It's intense. It's challenging. It's being pulled so far out of your comfort zone you want to scream, cry and pee your pants at the same time. But you're expected to smile while doing it.

It's getting stuck in the dark in an office building when the power goes off and having giardia so you can't eat and then getting fleas and heat rashes and having people around you that depend on you and want support and then other people in the rest of the world waiting for your email response. And again, trying to muster that smile.

The UN and State Department with their housing allowances and other perks for Expats calls it a hardship placement. I shower with a bucket, put on my Chacos, and call it full on. Some might call me idiotic. I grin and call me resilient.

Walking to work in the rainy season in Yangon.

We've somehow adjusted to a version of reality that's so unlike any of the other realities we've every experienced in 30 countries these past few years. We tried to prepare ourselves. We cut down from maintaining multiple websites and heaps of online communication to living in a country where basic HTML Gmail often won't load. We read books about the country and watched films, but especially for a country like Myanmar, this filled our heads with frightening images and realities that were so different than the stories my students and other travelers told us.

And we got to know the country, with all its quirks. And we sort of made it home.

But have we adjusted? I sometimes can't decide. Sometimes the fact that we have to leave every 2.5 months for a new visa is blessing to get a breath of fresh air and use Skype again. Other times it's a curse to move back and forth between such starkly contrasting environs from the modernity and technology of Bangkok to the simplicity and our "full-on" existence in Yangon.

But we're proud that followed our dreams trying to live intentionally and without regret. Although this time we've sacrificed a lot to do it. We've neglected relationships with so many people we love. We shut down our online start-up for lack of internet connection to maintain it. Kyle's set aside his tech passions to follow my passions. We we still haven't gained back most of the 15 pounds we both lost getting ill repeatedly while here.

And there are days I look over at Kyle and see a version of him that's so tired and unlike him it's hard to see it as truth. And other days I see him getting off the local bus, smiling and speaking Burmese with friends, and it all makes sense again.

But we could never regret it. It's been a year of great opportunity to immerse ourselves in such a foreign place and touch people's lives. I've walked into the homes and held the hands of people that are so resilient, strong and generous that it brings me to tears. At their most recent graduation, the students at Kyle's school took all the teachers into a quiet room for a Buddhist teacher ceremony. A dozen young adults bowed on the ground praying and blessing their teachers and thanked them for the education they'd been given. How often in your life do you make such a deep impact on a person and receive such earnest gratitude? How can you measure the weight of sacrifices when the gains are so large?

Visiting a head monk in Yangon.

Our lives are richer for having lived here, despite the challenges. And so many of our sacrifices seem so small compared to the sacrifices we see being made by the people around us. It's fuel to keep it up a bit longer, and be proud of our 2011 outside of our comfort zones.

To 2012 and living more dreams.

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January 03, 2012 Mark Wiens: Great for taking on the challenge and for sticking with it!

I really enjoyed reading this because it sounded like something my Mother would have written. About 20 years ago my family moved into rural DR Congo for 4 years. It was like nothing we had ever seen or done and I'm sure it was a lot more challenging for my parents than it was for me (I was 6 - 10 years old at the time).

I know the place was hard to live in, but it was really the amazing people and the relationships over time that made up for it.

Wishing you guys a happy new year and a great year ahead!

January 03, 2012 Bessie: Thanks for sharing, Mark! 4 years is really a long time - that must have been an amazing journey for your family! I definitely agree that the relationships and the people make the place!

We're really grateful for the opportunity even though it's been challenging. It's amazing what one can do if you're willing to put in the effort!

January 03, 2012 J: Guys, what an amazing experience for both of you, and making a genuine difference in people's lives. Hats off to you, you have my up most respect!!
Cheers, J

January 03, 2012 Bessie: Thanks, J! That means a lot coming from you. It's been a memorable year & we're looking forward to sharing some of it with you soon. :)

January 03, 2012 Julian Blumenthal: I think that 30, 40 years from now, the lessons you learned for this experience will still help you navigate the running river of life. This article is really inspirational.

January 03, 2012 Bessie: Thanks, Julian, that's so kind of you. We've learned so much about ourselves and about being better, more patient, and generous versions of ourselves. We've also learned out limitations!

Thanks for keeping up with our travels!

January 03, 2012 Christine Krieg: Bessie & Kyle - I am so touched by your words and actions. You are definitely my kind of role model. So few people live their lives with such intention and focus on how to help others. I've been back in San Francisco since July, which has been great on many levels, but I do miss the simplicity of life I experienced in Southeast Asia. Many people here expressed that 2011 was the worst year of their lives - and yet, IMHO, they don't know how good they actually have it, compared to the majority of people living on this Earth.

You inspire me to make a daily effort to live my life with intention - to live it "full on." As you've said it is often challenging and demands that you leave your comfort zone - but it is so worth it!

So thank you for the much needed reminder. I look forward to hearing what dreams you will be living next and whose lives you will assuredly touch and change for the better.

Have a fantastic "full on" 2012!

January 03, 2012 Bessie: Thanks for the reply from the heart, Christine! I'm sure you can relate to the experiencing of opening to a different way of life here. And it's true, life is so hard for people in this region, and yet, they're so unlikely to complain. Sometimes there's too much complacency, but then again, there's an acceptance of suffering and challenges in life, and I've met so many people that are graceful at experiencing that suffering in a way that I wish I could emulate.

I'm glad we can help inspire. I think it makes the world a better place the more we're willing to go outside of our comfort zones.

Best wishes for a great 2012 to you!

January 03, 2012 gotpassport family: Dear Bessie and Kyle, I love you both!

January 03, 2012 Bessie: Much love, right back at you all!! We're so excited to see you. <3

January 03, 2012 Brianna W.: What a great post, one of many over the past year. It has been eye-opening following your adventures and I am so glad to hear you are doing well, keeping your heads up! :) Thank you for sharing your journey. Keep living "full on" as it were and take care. All the best!

January 03, 2012 Bessie: Thank you, Brianna! Thank you for reading and following our journey. It's so rewarding having people to share it with us!

January 03, 2012 Cindy: Just utterly inspiring, thank you!

January 09, 2012 mumsie: "Go forth and do well, but more importantly, go forth and do good."
I'm sure you recall those words, Bessie.
Thank you for sharing all that you Both do!

January 09, 2012 Audrey: I really love this post and the concept of living full-on. It's not always fun, it's not easy, but you feel like you are learning and growing each day, not to mention the impact you're having on the community. And after you finish with this experience, you'll be able to take on almost anything. Just think of all the skills you have developed over the last year. Here's to a fantastic 2012 to the two of you!

January 09, 2012 Erica: You guys are always so inspiring. I'm still in the mindset that if I do live abroad, it has to be with all my comforts like internet. I didn't realize how dependent I was on it until this tip (and I still try to step away from it sometimes).

You're earning serious karma points. Love following along. (Feel better!)

January 09, 2012 Erin: I love this honest look back at your year. The sacrifices you have made and the resilience you have shown by sticking at it through the hardships are truly inspirational. But the best, most rewarding travel experiences are never the easiest. I hope we get to meet you guys when we visit Myanmar later in the year.

January 09, 2012 mumsie: From your heart. And very honest.

You spread your sunshine wherever you go.
You grow wherever you are planted.
You share the seeds of your harvest.
And the cycle begins anew.

Here's to a wonder-filled and fulfilling 2012 . . .
Full-on! :D

January 15, 2012 Linda: Ah yes...I remember all those days teaching 5th grade at Woodland School when the students would bow down and honor me for my hard work and dedication.....NOT! An occasional thank you would have been nice! You have had a rare experience dealing with people who have such a lust and appreciation for education.

January 17, 2012 Rachel: Bessie! What a beautiful entry. Thank you for giving so much of yourself to a job and community that was rewarded with your presence. And thank you for sharing your thoughts via such touching words.

January 30, 2012 Suitcase Reviews: Thanks for sharing this !! A year must have been tough out there and well done for doing it !

Our 2011 in Myanmar: Full-On

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