Adios Belize

Bessie_thumb
Written by Bessie and Kyle on Thursday, April 17, 2008 in Belize
Feelin' normal

Belize has been a delicious bite of Jamaican flavor added to the somewhat homogeneous mass of Central America. It's a blend of cultures I would never have dreamed up, and I'm glad I didn't have to, it's better in real life. It's possible I could just be on another of our 10+ hours bus rides dreaming of not having dried-up refried beans, so I'm imagining hearing people speaking sort-of English and eating cajun food. This place is for real though, and the marine life is amazing.

Dock in Caye Caulker, Belize

The Barrier ReefRegga Gal, our snorkle boat, Caye Caulker
The reef here is the 2nd largest in the world after Australia, and it takes my breath away (with the help of my snorkel gear). The ocean is so clear and the most incredible blends of dream-like blues and greens that only the ocean can create. The sand is whiter than me, and the two together make it impossible to take a bad photo. We got out to the coral reef and snorkeled, and it's the best I've ever seen. The coral itself has probably seen better days, but it's been a reserve for 20 years, which helps its cause A LOT. 

The coral is a blend of deep yellows like Mac N Cheese, light orange Sponge-Bob masses, and super purple large fans made of veiny strings.  The marine life takes the cake though.  We swam with nurse sharks whose vacuum-cleaner mouths feed from the ocean floor, sting rays so big and black they look like shadows, huge dark grouper with eyes like dark golf balls, 2 ft long barracuda that glide under the water's surface, and lazy sea turtles and colorful fish that had me quoting Finding Nemo.  (I wish I had pictures to show it all, but the under-water camera had technical problems.)  We took a 7 hour sailboat ride there and back just to make the day that much sweeter.  Oh, and true to Caribbean form, they filled us with rum punch on the way home.
Translate this Belizian Phrase!
Colorful Belize
The striking ocean blues are intriguing enough, but the people take the prize as shocking me the most. The majority are Creole (descendants of African slaves and British pirates), many are mestizo (descendants of Spanish settlers and indigenous), some are Mayan (who had this land pre-europeans), and the rest are a hodge-podge of Chinese, Indian, and gringos. The groups seem to interact pretty homogeneously, although in some places tending to stay in their own cultural pockets.

It's not odd to see friends of any age group, any race, and crazy smatterings of Spanish, Creole (sort of how people talk in Jamaica), and indigenous Mayan. For instance: a Creole my age and a mestizo 20 years older walking onto the bus talking like Bob Marley and seem like old friends. In some countries, different races don't blend together, but maybe here in Belize during their plight to run-out the european rule everyone became buddies. It's inspiring, and out of some politcally correct tv ad.

(Photo translation below)

They're doing alright
In a place where American culture seems invited (and not just invading like other places) and it's on the right track to maintain it's natural beauty, the slow pace here and unique lifestyle might just be here to stay. The country abounds with a relaxed, go slow pace, and its in their blood. People spend about as much time riding on one-speed cruiser bikes as they do sleeping. It also helps that less than 300,000 people are spread out here in a region where over-population is common (El Salvador is smaller and has 6 million more people). Conservationists have been fairly successful in protecting the reef and the jungles throughout the country, and unlike most places, their jaguars and other animals are growing in numbers due to awareness campaigns.

Pirates Rrrestaurant, Caye Caulker, Belize Belize 15 Bessie and Her Bike, Caye Caulker, Belize

It's an intriguing place for sure, this Belize. It would be way to small for me to live in, but slow and super small-town diversity is nice to visit.

(Creole translation: Fisherman [that] never sees a fish, stinks.)

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Comments on "Adios Belize"

Don't be shy, tell us "hi"

The kids and I stopped in Belize last year on our cruise and went to a "nature preserve" (for lack of a better word) where they got to be arm-in-arm with howler monkeys. It was a blast, but very "touristy". Thanks for showing me the part of Belize I didn't get to see in the short time I was there. It makes me want to go back. :)

by Kristine at April 21, 2008 09:22 AM
Kyle_thumb

Ya, Caye Caulker is actually a good place for kids as it is pretty chill and tame. There are a couple of weirdos on the island, but isn't it like that everywhere?

April 21, 2008 11:42 AM

Neat variety of photos: Says ALOT with very little. You'll love looking at these Belize pics years from now.

I love this piece on Belize, Bess. It is evident that you have been taken in by the awesome pleasure that Nature provides. (Did you find it humbling?) And your language gently pours out the in-the-present appreciation of the people in this locale. Your writing seems inspired. Thank you for drawing me in to that peacefulness.

by Mumsie at April 21, 2008 01:11 PM
Bessie_thumb

maybe if I can't find a job when I get back, I'll be one of those people that says nice things while people meditate. Like "feel the gentle breezes pouring over you, relaxing your entire body with its calm strength." Then I'll ring a bell. ;)

May 04, 2008 07:33 PM

Hey guys,

Nice blog. I enjoyed reading it!

It would be nice if you shared your travel experiences on my new website!

http://Medoblado.ning.com

Hope you can participate!

All my best,
Medo

by Medoblado at December 23, 2008 02:34 PM
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