City of the Dead
Written by Kyle on Sunday, February 15, 2009 in Argentina
Feelin' amused
If you gotta die, this is one way to go. Not go, really, but be immortalized. Welcome to La Recoleta Cemetery.Feelin' amused
On first walking in, you feel like you are in a little cemetary city. There are narrow streets that pass through the tombs where the buildings are substituded by monuments full of, you know, dead people. It's actually a pleasent enough stroll as long as you haven't seen a horror/zombie movie recently. It would also be the scariest place to play hide and seek that I can think of.
Here, Kitty, Kitty!
Of course, you're not the only living citizen here. Other than tourists, there are numerous cats who seem to like to spend their time in front of their favorite tombs just hanging out like cats do. If you're wondering why the cats stay here (other than for the peace and quiet), I saw a volunteer come by and put down some food for the cats. So, as long as the food keeps coming, they'll stay. I personally think they should stock the cemetery with black, yellow-eyed cats only, just to really creep people out.
Now that's going out in style
I was constantly amazed by how elaborate a lot of the tombs were. I'm more of a name, date, short description kind of person, but there was no shortage of fancy displays. I guess if you have the cash and you want to go out with a bang, who am I to stop you from doing it?
"Hello? Candygram. I mean, ummm, angels. We'll just wait outside for you, then"
"Shhh...don't tell anyone, but he's really not dead. He just wanted to get away from the family for a little while."
Are they making sure that no one gets in or out?
Kind of cool trees, actually, just kind of wierd, too.
Nothing says honoring your dead like a statue of a suckling baby.
But who are these people?
As the socialites would say, anyone who is anyone is buried in La Recoleta. And it's true. Supposedly the cost of a spot in this cemetary costs more per month than it does to rent an apartment. So, you know, if you have more money to spend when you're dead than you do when you're alive, then you must be someone.
A cursory look around will tell you that most of the people were either part of the military, the government, or both. Most military inscriptions will be full of "fought bravely and patriotically in the battle of ---", etc. while most of the government people usually had inscriptions that usually included some line about working tirelessly for the poor, which is ironic considering the costs of their current resting spot.
There were a number of less conspicuous people that I found in the mix, though. There's Dalmiro Varela Castex, the founding member of the automobile club. I'm guessing the Bike Riders of Argentina doesn't have enough cash to honer their founding member.
There's a pharmacy inspector. I'm actually kind of glad that inspecting the safety of drugs is that important.
And, of course, there is the president of the jockey club.
The most famous resident
Of course, the most famous resident in the cemetery, and the reason why most people go, is Eva Peron (aka "Evita", aka "Don't Cry For Me Argentina"). She is actually in her family's plot (under the name Duarte), and she had quite a journey getting there.
After she died (she refused treatment for cancer for a long time because she was "too busy helping people"), she was embalmed and put on display underneath a large monument in the center of the city, much like Lenin in Russia. However, a couple of years later, Eva's husband, Juan Peron was overthrown by the military, who prompty banned all things Peron and took her body from the monument. For 16 years, no one new where the body was, until finally someone confessed that it was buried in Milan,Italy under another name. The body was exumed and taken in by Juan Peron to his house in Spain, where he was living in exile. Eventually, Juan Peron, died after becoming president of Argentina (again) and Eva was buried alongside Juan. Later, it was moved again to the place where it is now in the Duarte family tomb. To make sure it doesn't go anywhere, the actual coffin is protected by several trap doors and is rumored to be able to survive a nuclear attack. You know, just in case.
Comments on "City of the Dead"
Kyle's definitely got a way with words... writing tech code isn't the only writing I think he's good at - I try to encourage him......
Kyle, those are pony tail palms. I have a similar one in my office. I hope that's not a bad omen!
Looks like Den Czurylo "beat me to the punch"...so to speak, in identifying the ponytail palms. Grandma had one and now it now resides with either the Kudlicks or the younger Ratskoffs....can't remember whom! It appears exalted cemetaries inhabited by cats is also a worldwide "tradition". We saw one in Paris a short walk from our hotel. Your version seems a bit more "spooky" than the French version!
Thank you so much Kyle for sharing with us the photo of Eva Peron's final resting place. I'm so impressed with what you and Bessie are doing and look forward to your news and pictures. May God bless you both on your travels.
I love the commentary! You have somehow missed your calling. What a wonderful addition to your experiences it will be living in Korea and getting to know that culture. Being a global citizen if a wonderful contribution to your life and others. Keep having fun.
by Susan at February 19, 2009 08:46 AM